A good drill is only half the story. Put the wrong bit in it and you will get a rough hole, a blunt bit, a cracked tile, or all three. At Khandelwal Trading Co. in Panchkula we see it all the time: a masonry bit skating on a steel section, or a wood bit burning out in a concrete wall. The fix is simple once you know it. Match the bit to the material.

This guide runs through the four materials you will drill most often, concrete, tile, wood and metal, and tells you exactly which bit to reach for and how to use it. Whether you need a drill bit for concrete or a clean hole through a ceramic tile, you will find the right approach below. If you are still choosing the machine itself, start with our guide to choosing the right drill for every job.

First, match the bit to the material

Every drill bit is shaped and made for a purpose. The tip geometry, the flute design and the metal it is made from all change depending on what it is meant to cut. A carbide masonry tip that crushes concrete is useless on steel, and a razor-sharp metal bit will overheat and split a tile. Three things decide a clean hole: the right bit, the right speed, and whether the hammer action is on or off.

Get those three right for each material and the job becomes easy.

Drilling into concrete and masonry

This is the job most people struggle with, and the wrong bit is almost always the reason.

The right bit: a carbide masonry bit

A drill bit for concrete, brick or block has a tough carbide (tungsten carbide) tip brazed onto a spiralled steel body. The carbide crushes its way through the material while the hammer action drives it forward. For an impact drill you want a round-shank masonry bit such as the Bosch CYL range. For a rotary hammer you use an SDS-plus or SDS-max shank bit, which slots straight into the tool. If you are unsure which system you have, see SDS-plus vs SDS-max.

How to drill it cleanly

  • Switch the hammer action ON.
  • Run a moderate speed, not flat out; heat blunts carbide fast.
  • Let the tool do the work with steady pressure, do not lean on it.
  • Pull the bit out every few seconds to clear the dust from the hole.
  • For hard RCC, a rotary hammer will beat a percussion drill every time.

A general purpose multi-construction bit can handle occasional mixed materials, but for repeated concrete work a dedicated masonry bit lasts longer.

Drilling into tile and marble

Tile and marble are hard on the surface but brittle underneath, so the goal is a clean start with no cracking. This is where most bits and most tiles get ruined.

The right bit: a tile or diamond bit

Use a spear-point tile bit for standard ceramic, or a diamond-tipped bit for hard vitrified tiles, granite and marble. A normal masonry bit will wander and crack the glaze.

How to drill it cleanly

  • Turn the hammer action OFF completely.
  • Stick a piece of masking tape over the spot to stop the bit skating.
  • Start at a very low speed until the bit bites, then keep it slow.
  • Keep the tip cool with a little water, especially with diamond bits.
  • Ease off the pressure as you break through the back of the tile.

Drilling into natural stone benefits from the same slow, cool approach. For sealing and caring for marble and granite afterwards, see our AKEMI stone and marble care range.

Drilling into wood

Wood is the most forgiving material, and there is a bit for every size and finish.

The right bits

  • Brad-point bit: the sharp centre point stops it wandering, giving clean, accurate holes; ideal for furniture and joinery.
  • Twist bit: fine for general small holes.
  • Spade (flat) bit: fast, larger holes for rough work and cable runs.
  • Auger bit: deep, clean holes in thick timber.
  • Hole saw: large diameters, such as pipe and fitting cut-outs.

How to drill it cleanly

  • Hammer action OFF; use plain rotary mode.
  • Clamp the work so it cannot spin or move.
  • Place a scrap backing board underneath to stop the wood splitting as the bit exits.
  • Back the bit out now and then to clear the chips on deep holes.

Drilling into metal

Metal needs sharp bits, slow speeds and a bit of patience. Rush it and you burn the tip.

The right bit: HSS, and cobalt for hard metals

High-speed steel (HSS) bits, such as the Bosch HSS PointTeQ range, handle mild steel, aluminium and most household metal. For stainless steel and other tough metals, step up to an HSS-Co cobalt bit, which holds its edge at higher temperatures.

How to drill it cleanly

  • Hammer action OFF, always.
  • Mark the spot with a centre punch so the bit cannot slip.
  • Drill a small pilot hole first for larger holes.
  • Run a slow speed; the harder the metal, the slower you go.
  • Add a drop of cutting oil to cool the bit and clear swarf.
  • Deburr the sharp edge afterwards with a larger bit or a file.

Quick cheat sheet: bit to material

Material Bit to use Hammer Speed Key tip
Concrete / brick Carbide masonry (round shank or SDS) ON Moderate Clear dust often
Tile / marble Spear-point or diamond bit OFF Low Tape the spot, keep it cool
Wood Brad-point, spade, auger, hole saw OFF Medium to high Backing board to stop tear-out
Metal HSS, or HSS-Co for hard metals OFF Low Centre punch and cutting oil

Getting more life from your bits

Bits are cheap next to the job they do, but a little care makes them last. Keep them dry so they do not rust, store them by size in a case rather than loose in a bag, and let them cool between hard holes rather than pushing a smoking bit. A blunt or overheated bit is slower, messier and harder on your drill. When a bit stops cutting and just polishes the hole, it is time for a new one.

We stock drill bits and bit sets from Bosch and other brands for every material, so it is easy to pick up the right one along with your machine. Tell us the job and we will match the bit to it.

Frequently asked questions

What drill bit should I use for concrete?

A carbide-tipped masonry bit. Use a round-shank version with an impact drill, or an SDS bit with a rotary hammer. Keep the hammer action on and clear the dust from the hole as you go.

Can I use a masonry bit for tile?

It is not recommended. A masonry bit tends to wander and can crack the glaze. Use a spear-point tile bit for ceramic or a diamond bit for hard vitrified tiles and marble, with the hammer switched off.

Why does my drill bit keep going blunt or burning?

Usually too much speed and too little cooling. Slow down, ease the pressure, and use cutting oil on metal. A masonry bit going blunt fast often means it is being run too hot or used on the wrong material.

What is the difference between an HSS and a cobalt bit?

Both drill metal, but cobalt (HSS-Co) bits keep their edge at higher temperatures, which makes them better for stainless steel and other hard metals. For mild steel and aluminium, a standard HSS bit is fine.

Do I need the hammer action for wood and metal?

No. Hammer action is only for masonry. Always switch it off for wood, metal, tile and marble to avoid rough holes and damage.

Get the right bits in Panchkula

Not sure which bit or set you need? Bring the job to us. Tell us the material and the hole size, and we will set you up with the right bit and drill across every budget. We also service and repair power tools in store.

Call: 94175 65977
WhatsApp: wa.me/919417565977
Store: Shop No. 4, Street No. 2, Maheshpur, Sector 21, Budanpur, Panchkula, Haryana 134117
Trade enquiries and quotes: ktctools.in/get-quote

See the wider range on our power tools page, or read up on the types of drill machines if you are still choosing a drill.